*OLD* 5hp Tecumseh - need help
OLD wheel horse snowblower I picked up. Tecumseh engine is very old. model # is H50-6517OH serial # is 0237-06831. I am trying to locate a part number for the carb rebuild kit. the carb number does not appear to be complete. All I can see is 110 OH14. Also, I have had a hard time deciphering the date of mfg from the model/serial.. anyone have any info for me? Thanks a bunch! Tecumseh PN#31840 where/how'd you find that? I have looked and looked and came up with nothing... I must be blind. I also need a muffler - not the threaded pipe kind.. those threads are stripped but the bolt holes are fine. This is where Google comes in handy. Search for tecumseh h50 carb kit and you will get several hits on info and places to purchase. thanks, muffler PN# 32401 gasket PN# 35865 thanks guys! I appreciate the replies... FYI, here is a link for Tecumseh parts lookup http://landscapepower.com/tecumseh_partslists.html Where it asks for the spec #, use the entire model and spec number (H50-65170H). This will give you a complete break-down of the engine but does not provide any useful information on the carburetor, so, you'll find the carburetor part number (630992B), use this and go here http://www3.sears.com/intro.shtml and type in the carburetor number in the model number area and you will now have a complete break-down of the carb. Also, bear in mind that with the 32401 muffler you'll need to modify the carb cover if this engine originally had the canister type muffler. Also, the first four digits of the serial number (0237) help to tell the year, 0=model year (you have to figure out the decade but based on the spec number you have I'd say it is a 1970) 237=the two-hundred thirty-seventh day of 1970. Which would make the unit a 1971 model year thrower. Thanks Puey.. Those links are more of what I was looking for. this engine is on a snowthrower and it has a big metal cover over the carb and the muffler that was on it is a canister type but the threads in the exhaust port are all stripped out. I am probably going to have to modify the carb. cover anyway to retrofit to the flat box-type muffler. I dont think it matters much, but I did find a tag indicating its had the shortblock replaced.. those numbers are (model) SBH 1690, (serial) 0177F You'll only need to reference the SB number should you ever get inside the engine as it is for the cylinder block and everything inside. okay.. Thanks. new question regarding mixture screws.. what is a good baseline adjustment for the idle mixture and high-speed mixture? I have been following you exchange with much interest. I have the same problem with an H50 engine on a Troy-Bilt Chipper/Vac. I determined that I have a H50 65582T engine and a 632631 carburetor. However, the Sear link does not have any information on the carb. Any suggestions on next steps to find the appropriate rebuild kit? That's because it isn't a Sears product. go here; http://www.landscapepower.com/tecumseh_partslists.html enter the spec number, 65582T download Illustrated Parts List. hope this helps, thanks, I went to the website you referenced following the instructions given in message number 7. From there I found the part number for the carburetor. I then tried the Sears website per instructions and found that they did not have any information for that carburetor. I have since found out that the carburetor is no longer available. I am now trying to determine get the correct rebuild kit. I can find references to carb rebuild kits for H50 engines, but I am not sure that they put the same carburetor on all H50 engines. That is my delemma. I am pretty sure that almost all H50 engines use the same carburetor and rebuild kit. If the bowl doesnt leak at all, you could probably not even need a rebuild kit but just tear it all apart and soak it in carb parts cleaner for an hour, rinse with water and blow with compressed air and reassemble. The carb kit comes with a new needle/clip, bowl gasket, o-ring, 2 welch plugs and the two needles. IMO, after doing this carb its sort of a waste unless the bowl nut and needles are mangled. If you need help in teardown and reassembly, I could take my carb apart and snap pictures for you if you like. Thank you so much for your help and kind offer. Although not a mechanic, I would like to try and take it apart and reassemble it if I can. The bowl doesn't leak and I have always run it dry after use. It sat in the garage since last fall. I added gas and it started right up and ran fine for a while. Then after tilting it back and moving it up a step on my sidewalk, it started to slow down and sounded like it was running out of gas. It turned out that it was low on gas. I added more gas and then it would run for a second or two and then quit. After trying many times to keep it running, I finally quit from exhaustion. Not knowing much about small engines, I just figured that the carburetor needed to be rebuilt and started looking for a rebuild kit. In my experience, you dont want to run the carburetor dry because the gaskets will dry out and shrink. Always leave fuel in the tank and carb, but add Sta-Bil or something similar to preserve the fuel and prevent varnish buildup. On these H50 engines, the carbs are very simple and dont have a ton of parts. All it may need is a good soaking in parts wash. I use Gunk's 1gal can of carb cleaner (bath type) or Napa's 6402 is a very popular one. After soaking rinse and blow with compressed air and you will have a squeaky clean carb. Thank you so much for the information. That is really good to know about not running them dry. Definite going to change my ways. I am off tomorrow to get the carb cleaner. Be sure to clean the bowl nut(main jet), I use the wire from a twist tie. Check the photo below. http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...c_bowl_nut.jpg And yes, like Geogrubb said make sure you clean the pinholes out on the bowl nut. This is one of the most important things you have to have clean in the carb for it to function properly. I used a small pipe cleaner on my HM80 engine, I replaced it on the H50 engine.
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