Gorgeous Highlights
When it comes to coloring the hair using weaving techniques, you have a variety of options. Weaving is sectioning out specific areas of the hair for color while leaving other hair untouched. It is done to give the hair dimension and a natural highlighted or dramatic effect.
Coloring
Coloring procedures that can be used for weaving techniques are low-lights, highlights and multiple colors. Low-lights add darker color to light hair, whereas highlights add lighter color to darker hair. To add multiple colors, put two or more colors throughout the hair using the above techniques and alternating colors. Mix colors in separate bowls and use separate applicator brushes. Use different-colored applicator brushes or bowls so you do not get the colors mixed up while applying. Put on gloves and a protective color cape before beginning any color-weave procedure.
Balayage or Chunking
Chunking is taking large, quarter-inch sections of hair and placing them in strategic areas throughout the hair to give a dramatic effect to spiky, choppy, straight, punk, or emo or Gothic hairstyles. It can be performed using color or lightener, and is usually placed around the face or areas you want to accentuate.
To chunk the hair, prepare a color or highlighting mixture in a bowl by mixing your chosen solution until it forms a creamy consistency. Section out pieces of hair (about a quarter-inch thick) in areas you want to see color effects.
Apply protective gloves and paint the solution on the sectioned hair using a color applicator brush. Put cotton underneath the section, or wrap in aluminum foil to protect the hair you do not wish to color. Continue around the head until you have covered all chosen sections. Try to obtain a somewhat symmetrical pattern (evenly placed) for best results.
Slicing
Slicing the hair is weaving out thin, medium or thick sections to frame the face or create a striped effect. It can be performed on all hairstyles, but tends to be dramatic. It is similar to chunking, but the overall effect is more symmetrical, and the size of the partings tends to be smaller.
Slicing can be performed in individual areas, such as over the ears, to give a hint of color in the hair, or it can be done at the hair parting to create evenly placed highlights.
To slice the hair on a part, let the hair fall at the natural parting, or find the part. Use a rat-tail comb to take a quarter-inch to a 1/2-inch slice of hair horizontal to the hairline. The first slice should be a section around the face, and then every 2 to 3 inches back toward the crown. Put a 6-inch to 8-inch piece of aluminum foil ( 4 to 5 inches for short hair) under each slice, flat against the scalp, and paint on the color or lightener solution till the hair strand is saturated.
Fold the foil up to cover the coated hair. Check every 5 minutes after the last foil has been placed. Leave on 30 to 40 minutes for color and check every 5 minutes for lightener, keeping in mind that bleach can damage the hair.
Fine Weaving
Although all the processes listed are considered color-weaving techniques, fine weaving is using a rat-tail comb to weave out hair for coloring and give the appearance of natural highlights or low-lights. This technique is appropriate for all hair types and styles.
To fine weave the entire head, section off hair into four general areas by parting the hair down the middle forehead to nape, and then ear to ear parallel to the face. Clip each section with a butterfly clip.
Start at the back area and section a 1/2-inch horizontal parting at the nape. Hold the hair tightly in one hand, and use your dominant hand to weave the end of the rat-tail comb up and down to separate small pieces from the hair section you are holding.
As you do, grasp the hair you are weaving out with your index and middle finger, and let the hair in the other hand drop. Grab the section you have just woven with your non-dominant hand, and pick up a 6-inch piece of foil with the dominant hand.
Put the end of the rat-tail comb under the top of the foil and bend it over the comb, still holding the hair. Place the rat-tail comb with the foil underneath the hair strand. Pull the weaved strands down on top of the foil and secure by holding tightly with one hand. With the dominant hand, grasp your color applicator brush and paint on already prepared color or lightener onto the hair strand. Fold the foil up to cover the saturated hair.
Continue through the hair till complete. Work as quickly as possible (the color will stay on areas you applied first longer, and may damage the hair if left on too long). Check in 30 minutes for color, and every 5 minutes for lightener.
TIming
Avoid getting color solution on the rest of the hair during color weaving. Remove immediately with a wet towel and soap if this occurs.
Set a timer for 20 to 30 minutes when doing color, and 5 minutes for lightener. Leave color on for up to 40 minutes.
Be careful with lightener (bleach) as it may burn the hair if left on too long. If the desired lightness has not been achieved in 25 minutes, remove lightener from the hair and consult a professional cosmetologist to determine the reason for resistance.
Remove, rinse, shampoo and condition the hair when color reaches desired shade.
Tags: rat-tail comb, color lightener, dominant hand, every minutes, hair strand, hair using