I'm really suprised how unheard of these things seem to be in america, but I can't find any mention of them for sale... I'm from england originaly, and these were not rare items at all...any homestore would stock a choice and variety. They're spoken of in hanging guides, etc, and so turn up in searches but I can't find one for sale. Asking for a pasting table at homedepot or lowes gets utterly blank expressions. Does anyone know anywhere online who would stock this kind of thing? Lining paper too. *Sigh* R Lawrence.
Not sure online...but any reputable paint store should sell them.
Have you any idea the kind of costs of these? I've found 2 sources online, and they're all asking the most unbelievable amounts for these seemingly simple tables. As much as 400 dollars for one. This is something I'm used to paying about 20 pounds for back in England. R Lawrence.
Honestly no. I know a friend that got one that folds up real nice I THINK he give about $200 for it. I think you're paying for the light weight and ease of transport. I guess you could do the same on a sheet of plywood and a couple saw horses...
Even 200...that's just astonishing. I'll have to find some kind of alternative if this is truly the kind of price they sell for. I can't imagine how they justify it. I know wallpapering in america is perhaps less 'done' but that gigantic difference in costs just doesn't scan. I know I'm in a different country and all and wouldn't want it to sound like I was in any way comparing the two in a rivalry sense as it's truly only the price difference that's baffling to me, but...argh...I just looked up the price on an english home store and the pasting tables start at 8 pounds! R Lawrence.
Go to here for paste tables. I find these are too expensive and awfully heavy for me. I use the trestles you find on that page with a homemade top. I get 2 boards cabinet finish grade 6' long by 15 wide. Seal them with a poly. If you email me, I can send you pics of my table set up. Plus mine can be set up or torn back down in seconds, or I can use only 1 board at a time for borders.
Pasting tables in America ARE expensive. We tend to use tables made of basswood, which is self healing. That means you can table-trim your wallpaper and not destroy the wood or your blade. I used dirt cheap folding tables and buy more blades when table trimming. Some love the wood tables, but my $30 table works fine for me. If you need liner, visit www.wallliner.com, they sell many different types and will ship to England. You will probably have to email them to find out how much shipping is to your location though. Ed Greta, the owners of that company, are top notch people and make the best liner in America.
Well I actualy live in america, hence the problem finding a cheap table... Your 30 dollar table? Can I ask what it is? Theres a 6 foot long plastic folding table at BJ's I've got my eye on...Not light, but strong and flat and that's really all I'm after. Rob.
It's a folding picnic table available (or used to be) in the sporting goods section of Wal-Mart. It is aluminum with a cheap wood veneer sticker that covers the entire top surface. It is a bi-fold table with two U shaped legs and is 5-6ft long when folded out fully. It works great for residential and during my occasional commercial or wide-width job, two of these tables side by side work perfectly. Mind you this table will not get you any appreciative looks from other paperhangers, but it works for me.
Do I need special paint to do a suede faux finish? I know such paints are available (Ralph Lauren, Sherwin Williams) but I'm wondering what the end product might be like if use a suede painting technique (roller one coat and then do X's for the second coat) with normal paint. THANKS!
I believe the sueded paints have a built-in texture, so regular paint probably won't work as you want it to.
As was pointed out earlier, I think you'll need the suede paint. The paint is really different, sort of a combination of thick and thin. The paint is thin, with the texture making it seem thick. Understand that the suede paint WILL spatter, and the suede roller with the spatter guard is quite useful. Having a smooth wall will really make the suede look better.
Check Lowes Home Improvment, they have suede (an actual textured paint) available in about 12 or so colors. Its cheaper than other retailers , it takes 2 coats, hides imperfections, easy to do ( with a good 3/4 nap roller) and looks great. They have tons of literature on it, and in thursdays they have how-to-classes. If using in a bathroom,kitchen,or anywhere you want to wipe or wash it must cleat coat with water based clear coat. Thanks Jw
Check with a local paint dealer where you can get one-on-one service and advice. Some stores have videos and tutorials to achieve contemporary painting techniques. I know the big box stores have recently started to offer faux painting and other classes in order to gain business. Suede paint has micropolymer beads in it. It's a special paint. Once you use suede paint and you want to change it, it will require sanding to smooth surface and applying primer/sealer to prevent bleed through.
While you will have to use the suede paint to get the right finish, I would suggest painting the wall with an inexpensive flat paint of the same color first to help with the coverage. Because, as you stated, the suede paint is rather expensive and dose not cover well. This will save on the suede paint that you will need.
Tags: suede, faux, finish, suede paint, coat with, have suede, special paint, stores have, they have
I have the door that has the retractable screen on the top sash .The bottom glass doesn't move. Both top and bottom glass has been broken and I need to take the sashes from both to have the glass replaced. How do I remove them from the door? I have read the installation instructions on the Larson website and it shows a finger pull that is used to release the glass but there is not a finger pull on my door that I can find. Are these doors made so that the whole door has to be replaced if the glass breaks?
No, there is a method. What model number do you have? You will probably get better info by calling Larson with the Reg# thats on the sticker. Thats a relatively new door. Might be cheaper to actually order new panels, depends on where you live.
The model number is 346-60. This door was made in 2002.
Terry, I'm familiar with that door, but not enough to advise you on removing the panels. I know how the Andersen version works, but I'd hate to tell you wrong. Unless someone else comes on with better knowledge, I'd still suggest calling Larson. They may need your Registration number as well. It is normally on a sticker on the frame of the door itself. If you have a Lowes nearby, they may have someone who could help you. Esp if they have the same door or similar on display. Sorry, wish I had an answer.
Larson's toll free number is 800-334-1328
I sent them an email and they responded with an order form and these windows are $48 each. I was wanting to replace the glass at a local glass shop. I also called Larson and they say that when you remove the glass, there are clips that break when you take the sash out of the door so that you have to order from them to get the special clips to replace the windows. I guess I could give it away on FreeCycle.
most of these doors have the same setup. i say it's definitely fixable but you need to find a glass shop that is really helpful and knowledgable with alot of spare window parts laying around (like my glass shop!) even if the shop you take it to doesn't have the exact same corner clips they should have some that will work just as well. the corner pieces that they said will break are most likely a common piece that a glass shop would have (they might not necessarily break). it sounds to me like you just need to find a good glass shop that is good at fixing things without having to order a whole new one like alot of shops will tell you.
Thanks for trying to help. I think I will call a window installer I know who may know a glass shop that can help me. Lowes may have someone who knows about the clips. I never would have thought of that on my own and thats why I come here for help. Thanks again. If I find a solution, I'll come back and let you know.
I have a old troy bilt super tomahawk chipper shredder. Its been a great machine, but its getting all but impossible to find parts. Most immediately, I need a new drive belt. Does anyone know what size belt it is so I can at least find an off brand replacement? For the long run, where does one find parts for this beautiful machine?
If you can post the part number for the belt I'll see if I have a cross for it AJ
Murray took over this line when GardenWay went kapput. MTD didn't want it. But Murray is gone now, absorbed by Briggs Stratten, and they are not really supporting any Murray products with parts. So your best bet is Ebay, or long time Troy-Bilt dealers that might still have some parts on the shelf. Thankfully, most of the parts on the chippers were really generic. Things like bearings, shredder knives, engine parts and belts can be gotten at most small engine shops and other shredder dealers. The only really tough parts to get are replacement perforated screens and the chipper knife, but I see them on Ebay fairly often. I own a very early Tomahawk from Troy-Bilt that still has W. W. Grinder's name on it (the original manufacturer, now out of business)
You two are a godsend. I KNEW there was a good reason for keeping the parts catalog all these years. aj Allen -- The part number for the belt is 97133. thanks. Its really a shame -- these chippers are built to last, but they obviously outlast the companies who build them..... too bad. bontai Joe - how old is yours? Mine's from 1991. I'm going to need new flails and a knife pretty soon - its good to know I might have some luck at local small engine shops. thanks to you both.
Doc 97133 is a 5/8 X 29 1/4 belt many of the after market belts will work Stens exact match 265-107 Silver Streak 75-592 Rotary 7574 AJ
Originally Posted by doc bontai Joe - how old is yours? Mine's from 1991. I'm going to need new flails and a knife pretty soon - its good to know I might have some luck at local small engine shops. thanks to you both. Mine is from the early 1980's not sure exactly (1981 or 82??). It was the first year that Troy-Bilt sold them and came with a little 4 1/2 HP Tec motor. Thankfully they put bigger motors on later and improved the clutch. I'm on my second belt, replaced all the bearings once, replaced the centrifugal clutch once, rebuilt the carb once (and needs it again). The shredder T knives can be rotated 180 degrees to present a new sharp cutting edge on the opposite side. The chipper blade can be CAREFULLY ground to a new sharp edge. It's a DARN hard piece of steel, super tough and I couldn't get a file to cut it.
aj -- thanks for the info. I'm sure I can find it locally. saves me a ton of looking around. joe -- sounds like you've really kept that chipper running. As for me, i just hope my angle grinder can sharpen the knife. When the engine parts start to go, I may be looking for a new one.... again, thanks to you both! doc
The engine is replaceble from several sources for around $250 (I'm thinking of the 4 1/2 HP Tec on mine) and if mine were to go, I'd get a replacement motor without hesitation. It's a 1 hour job to swap motors on these for the average do it yourselfer. The machine is built too well to throw away, and can't be replaced for twice what a new motor costs.
that's a good way to think about it. I must have abused my terribly over the years as I've cracked my chipper chute at at the flange/base connection least 3 or 4 times. It would be worth looking into a new engine should it quit, though. thanks. doc
i also have a old 1990 garden way bolens/ tomahawk jr. chipper. being in the same boat as every one else with this machine. when looking you find that the machine is no more, parts very hard to find. the ones still working are monster work horse's. i have found the following companys to be of major help in keeping my machine still running. i was even able to repower with a ohv 9hp brigg's from the oem 5 hp tecums thanks to tulsa small engine for 1/2 of a new 5hp tecums. the following companies web sites are of major help samsbolens dot com has used parts and a very few new blades still in stock. sharptool dot com in Hudson,Mass. can and will custom make the blade for very near what they sell for when one can be found. here is another that will make the chipper blade. zenithcutter dot com both just need a old one to make the new ones from. and man can they do a great job. yes you will wait a number of weeks for the part, as custom is custom time also. just being able to find where i could was major help i also found the the leading edge of the blade was always were they crack off. useing diamond cutter disc these bad boys are rockwell 60 hardness on my hand held grinder and a lot of water.i rounded that edge down just a small amount . maybe 1/4 to 3/8 conture. so as it takes away the point and shoots it closer to the flywheel. taking a lot of strain off the blade. they have lasted me a lot longer the before now. the shreader fails can be found from chalmersindustries dot com. mine is a direct drive one no belt but when fixing others i was able to get a good heavy duty from our tractor supply store i hope this helps others like me to keep thier machines running on for years to come. these were from the days of real tools. my own customers love my being able to keep thiers running on like a model t ford
Thanks for the update on where to get some parts. These machines were really well built in their time and it's generally worth fixing them up to keep 'em running.
High,I'm new to these boards,so I hope I have this in the right place.I also have an old Tomahawk that I bought used in 1997 and have no manuals.I have replaced the motor 3 years ago and now I need to replace the frails.I was hoping someone could explain change them.I already have a set that I bought on Ebay last year.Thank you,Nick.
I'm looking for a new handle for a Troy-bilt Super Tomahawk 8HP chipper/shreader. Does anyone have any ideas?
I am also new to using forums. I have a Troy Chiper, Model 190412, w/a BS 8HP Engine. I've used it for years and now the main bearings that thrashes the limbs are shot. Any idea where to get replacements? Thanks!
Your best bet is to disassemble the unit and take the bearings to a bearing distributer for replacements. I had to have most other parts for the chipper hand built. Mine came with a 5 hp Tec. I work the heck out of it once a year when I clean up the back acerage and make a lot of mulch.
Considering the application, vibration and shock loads. you might want to get the best quality well sealed bearings you can afford. They operated in a nasty dirty environment. If you have no bearing supply or industrial supply places near you, you can Google Mc Master Carr on the internet. But I'd check your local phone book yellow pages first. Some local hardware stores will order bearings for you also. Costs nothing to ask 'em.
Kind of new to this I have a 1985 8 hp chipper model #10941 {st} I need a new belt for it whick I can probably find locally but I need to find some replacement parts for the chipper shredder roll pin w2007507, cylinder housing w2030751, cylinder pin w20307508, cylinder hammer w20307503, spacer short w20307504, spacer long w20307505, spacer short w20307506 if anyone can help me please reply thank you Mike
I recently was given what I think is a 1984 vintage Garden Way Super Tomahawk Chipper/Shredder with a Tecumseh engine (no info on engine showing what Hp it is...any clues on where to find info on engine?). model number is : 10939ST serial number is : W505279 I have been unable to locate a manual for this machine and would like to start rebuilding it this winter. Any ideas on where I might find one? The MTD manual site doesn't work with the info I plug in. Thanks for any and all help.
Hi all; Belts are no problem but I now need a new discharge screen for my 5hp Super. vintage '88 '89 Troy-Bilt. PN w20501075. Any of you out there selling off parts or have any ideas. Nothing on eBay when I last looked. The old one is cracked bent. Thanks.
I am having trouble locating the proper drive belt for my old machine with a Briggs Stratton 8hp engine. I have the model and serial numbers from the engine, but I suppose I need that same info from the chipper itself to get the proper part, correct?
I'm using a B-26 belt on mine and it works fine. Mike
New to forum, really glad to find it. Have a 5HP 1990 Super Tomahawk, the original sales brochure lists a tow hitch option. Just had back surgery and this would be extremely helpful. Has anyone heard of or seen this option. Thanks
I have the hitch on my Tomahawk chipper, but do not think it will help you with your back. The chipper is quite heavy to tilt to use the hitch. I can send you pictures if you like and demensions so you could have one made. Contact me through my messages area and we can communicate away from here.
Have looked at 5+ web sites that carry Troy-Bilt parts, but have not found this particular part. Part No. 1908146 Cylinder Pin (with roll pin hole). Anyone know where this particular part can be obtained?
Originally Posted by addgre New to forum, really glad to find it. Have a 5HP 1990 Super Tomahawk, the original sales brochure lists a tow hitch option. Just had back surgery and this would be extremely helpful. Has anyone heard of or seen this option. Thanks I have to agree with Camino Kid on the hitch. Mine has one also, but it's still a chore to wrestle it into position to use the hitch. Once attached to the tractor, it's nice to tow it around, but it has to be unhitched to use it, can't run it while hitched.
If anyone can help, It would be most help full. I am new here and Don't know if I am doing this right. This is an Original Garden Way machine. It runs grate but needs new blades. The ones I have are either broken or not worth sharping. I really need a copy of the original parts book. If anyone has a copy I will feed back any issues I find solutions to. Thanks for any help a head of time. Jim
I have the parts catalog for this particular model only. It is the 8HP I/C Electric. Am looking for part No. 1908146 Cylinder Pin (with roll pin hole). Need only one, but would purchase several if they can be found. Would appreciate any sources to locate this specific part.
Originally Posted by CA_Kid Would appreciate any sources to locate this specific part. Hello CA_Kid, Have you checked this place; MP1908146MA It appears your unit was built by Murray/Noma and since Briggs purchased Murray they put the MA on the end of the original part number. My Briggs dealer site still list this part number in their system, So you should be able to have it ordered in (part #1908146MA) at any Briggs dealership. Good Luck
Originally Posted by sasquash5074 If anyone can help, It would be most help full. I am new here and Don't know if I am doing this right. This is an Original Garden Way machine. It runs grate but needs new blades. The ones I have are either broken or not worth sharping. I really need a copy of the original parts book. If anyone has a copy I will feed back any issues I find solutions to. Thanks for any help a head of time. Jim http://forum.doityourself.com/outdoo...ts-manual.html Not good enough ?
Sorry, Don't Understand, Not Good Enough????
Chipper Cylinder Hammer Blades, PN 1900102 Drive belt W5L350 Source is Chalmers Ind, Chalmers Industries Home Page They have a lot of parts
Just tore down the Cylinder blade assembly, to the bare bones. The only issue I have is, I think I am going to have to make my own spacers. I have checked on line for 3/4OD roll pin stock but can not find any. Has anyone ever tried using 1/2 rigid pipe and make the split with a grinder cutting wheel. The ID is the same. Just a thought. I know the split is required to allow for corosion build up. I was hoping that someone else has had the same issue and came up with either a source or made their own. Any ideas? I could post some pictures if anyone is interested in what it looks like taken apart. Without a clear manual I missed the snap ring on the shaft when I was trying to remove it. I finally figured something was stopping it and and found and removed it, it came out easily afterwards. Would love to talk to someone else who has done the same thing and maybe trade ideas. You are welcome to email me direct if you would like. Thanks for the information listed in this forum. One other silly question does anyone know what the differences between the various model numbers that are close to the same, and are the manuls the same for part numbers. I would be glad to pay someone for their time to scan and email me a manual for this model. The one on line only has the 1st page of what appears to be a five page listing. Thanks agin for any help or suggestions, Jim
The shaft wouldn't happen to be 1/2 would it, same as model 11389, I have mine torn down and am looking for the same part., I guess I put this in wrong place. Sorry new at this. Was trying to respond to CA_Kid question about part #1908146 Cylinder Pin (with roll pin hole).
Thanks for the URL referral. They had the part I needed. While I needed only one, did purchase two, for the just in case. Thanks again, worked out fine. Still awaiting the parts.
Was the part the same as what you needed. I am looking for the same parts but all the other spacers. I think I have a parts breake down in the mail but have not received it yet. Could you let me know if the part you ordered has an outside diamiter of 3/4 and your shaft is 1/2. I need to replace all my spacers and may be able to use same material.
The ordered parts did arrive. In the Troy-bilt parts catalog, they are called Cylinder Pin and have a part no. of: 1908146. They are 8 11/16 long and have a diameter of 7/16. Hope this helps.
To Ca_Kid, thank you for answering. You said it was 7/16 was this the ID. The reason I am asking is this can be cut to make the other spacers. I have purchased a parts booklet that covers 11389 and the 14/15 series models. I would be happy to scan and copy for those that need it. At no charge. I hope to cross reference as much of the old numbers to what is available and provide it to all that needs it. Thanks for the up date Jim.
For billwillct4, The cross reference to new part number from W20501075 is 1766968001. This item can be located at partsandservice.com and is listed for about $43.00. This site will also cross reference from original Garden Way part numbers to new part numbers have crossed all of the Cyclinder assy to new numbers. Hope this helps
i have a chipper model 47282, cant seem to find any help until now. i need a bearing or shim that goes between the rotor and the housing, i tighten the bolt on rotor and cant pull the cord, removed the rotor and the key way has scratched the inner housing. any helper please on where to find parts that are missing. thanks people.
I bought this great machine in 1993. It is finally feeling it's age and I need some parts. This blog is my last chance! Just about done with the leaves this year when my Gear Shift Lever Assy. P/N 1901300 has frozen up and broken. I have to change gears at the Transaxle manually. I could also use a new leave Collection Bag P/N 1901482. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Tags: parts, troy, bilt, tomahawk, chipper, part number, Originally Posted, small engine, Super Tomahawk, 1908146 Cylinder, 1908146 Cylinder with, 1908146 Cylinder with roll, 1908146 Cylinder with roll hole
my concrete basement floor is about 6'6 below the 1st floor joists. we'd like to finish the basement but realize we'll need to lower the floor to meet code and make the space comfortable. can anyone offer advice on cost (about 700 sq feet worth), process, and preparation? i don't expect to be able to do this myself...
You may not be able to lower the basement floor at all. Codes prohibit excavating lower than to the bottom of the existing footer. For example if your footer thickness is 8, you can only dig down 8 maximum and that's it. Otherwise you disturb the bearing capacity of the foundation walls and compromise the structure. 8 may not give you ample headroom to meet minimum finished ceiling heights for a basement which is normally 7'. The reason is that you will need at least 4 of washed stone base under 4 of concrete floor. If you had a 4 slab on top of the existing footer, dug out 8 then installed the necessary new 8 of stone and concrete, you only have increased your ceiling height by a total of 4 to 6'10...still too short to be issued a permit in most locations. Unless your footer exceeds 10-12 in thickness, you won't be able to excavate deep enough to meet minimum headroom requirements for habitable basements.
DSW, Underpinning is allowed ALMOST anywhere. Issues that usually arise are existing water tables. Check with your City for verification of this. In some cases, the width of your new footing would have to be the entire width of the underpinning. This has to be certified by a structural engineer prior to the undertaking of such a task. In cases where an 8 inch block was used for a basement, the underpinning would have to consist of using a 12 inch block with vertical rebar and horizontal reinforcement. How this is applied, such as leaving the 4 inch to the outside exposed means that the cores must be filled and waterproofed. Inside exposure means a larger gap between newly framed walls and the 8” block, both of which are not a problem. Existing soil conditions and overall height of the new wall will determine this. With a basement this low in ceiling height, that may be an issue unless others around your area have deeper basements. Underpinning is not cheap and I have had to do many of them. In my area, it can run $250 - $400 per lineal foot depending on the depth below existing footing. The labor cost is high for this type of work. However, the end result can mean a very livable and enjoyable space. Process involves excavating as required under existing footing in alternate 4-foot sections. This is once you have removed portions of the existing slab. As you can see, this can be a long process. Alternative ways are to literally support the existing home with beams and jacks to do more of the work in less time. This allows for more machine digging rather than hand digging and only if access is available for a small backhoe. Pour reinforced concrete under for new footing and build new block wall from top of new footing to bottom of old footing. Break off existing footing projection. Installing a drain tile system with sump pump is highly recommended. This will include the p-gravel, 4 mesh covered piping, sump basket and sump pump. Then pour new slab over good substrate. The cost I mention does not include making this inside block look good, especially at the break off of the existing footing. Here is one example of before and after, http://dougaphs.smugmug.com/gallery/1165373 Hope this helps!
Doug is correct in that just about 'anything' is possible in construction....even having foundation walls engineered to extend below an existing footer...given enough money. But the real issue is cost to benefit ratio. One can dig to footing grade with no major issues, but once you need to go deeper than the existing footing, you need to have engineers involved to assess the soil conditions and assess the foundation and loads and to design the necessary changes just to be able to get the permits. The costs will exponentially rise from that point turning what can be an already pricey job to simply lower the basement a few inches to one where you may end up needing to reconstruct the entire foundation depending on soil conditions, unbalanced backfill heights, seismic zones and need for structural reinforcement. That is why once you need to dig past the existing footing, all bets are off. Sure, it CAN be done. Doug gives a good example that it can be. The real question is can it be done at an affordable price and one that will return you something for your investment. In most cases it won't and it would be cheaper to add 'up' or 'out' not 'down' to get more valuable living space. That's whay I say, if you can't get the space you want by simply digging to the existing footing depth, you probably won't be able to turn this into habitable space given the costs involved. But Doug is correct. Digging below the footer IS 'possible'. The real question is: is it 'practical'. And I don't think anyone can answer that question for you here.
manhattan42, Right on! Practical is the best word to describe it. The issue of the expense compared to real value it will provide is the issue between DSW and the banker. Also a good real estate agent could provide some insight before shelling out lots of money. For those projects that I have done, it has increased their value as they made more habitable space which met Code. The duration of the payback to recoup the expense is not immediate. I agree that the money for this venture could be better spend going out or up. The issues that this would involve would be a need for a more efficient and larger heating system. The final issue is, what can DSW really afford? Thanks for the followup!
thanks for all the posts. very insightful! as for what we can afford, given what you guys have said, it sounds like it may be out of our budget just for a basement. i guess it all depends on whether or not we would have to reinforce the foundation. is there a simple way to figure out how deep the foundation runs? is it just a matter of taking a sledgehammer to a corner of my basement, clearing the concrete and then digging down a few inches? (actually, hopefully it would be digging down about a foot.)
dsw, Sledgehammer and then you can start shoveling and see what you come up with. Hope this helps!
I recently purchased a core aerator. In years past, I've always rented an aerator in late spring and did my one time aeration of my lawn then. Most websites say one should aerate their lawn at least once a year. Now that I can aerate my lawn at practically no cost to me at any time, what is the optimal number of times I should aerated in a given season? Would once a month be too often?
Typically you want to do it twice at 90° angles on the passes when you do it so even once a year is actually twice. To some degree, how often is going to depend on your soil type. What do you have?
Generally, one aerates yearly in the fall or spring depending upon the grass you have. Having passed that along, I aerate in the fall. My grass is supposed to be aerated in the spring, but that would require aerating it after the pre-emergent herbicide has been applied, negating some of its effect. I would recommend only yearly. Core aeration is wonderful for the grass, but causes a lot of damage in the process. The grass must recover from this damage. Overall, the benefits greatly outweigh the damage. Aerating in the spring gives the grass time to get established before the heat of summer. Aerating in the early fall gives the grass time to recover before winter sets in. Balance. Hope this helps. Chris
I've heard cool season grasses respond best to aeration in the fall and warm season ones in the spring.
How do you aerate? Best way is to sweep/vacuum the plugs, lay down lots of coarse river sand and sweep it into the holes. Plugs tossed.
Why would you toss the plugs or add sand?
The sand keeps the holes from collapsing, but it is very porous - the sand columns act like wicks - therefore the effects of the aeration last longer.
I dunno how you'd sweep plugs up or sand into aeration holes in a regular lawn. The grass is still 3 or so long. A putting green maybe so, but a lawn? What would you do...go around with a funnel on each hole? Removing the plugs instead of letting them gradually break down is removing nutrients and top soil from your turf.
I'm with Vic, I would not replace nutrient containing soil with nutrient void sand even if it means I need to aerate more often. Leave the plugs on the ground but sweep some organic material like compost into the holes and I could get on board with the concept.
In nearly 30 years I've cored my lawn only once. It was when I was a lot younger and a lot more energetic. I learned a couple of things from the experience. 1. It's too much work and 2. depending on your soil make up it may be unecessary. Sand however is a great soil amendment. I improves`drainage and friability and grasses (again in my area) love it - assuming the proper nutrients have been added. if I were going to core aerate my lawn I would follow the lead of the local golf courses. In my location they core in the spring and fill the holes with sand/nutrient mix. Sweeping sand on a lawn would be a pain, but I suspect it could be worked with a rake. My SIL uses tube sand in hte bed of his pickup for traction. When the bags start to break down he spreads it on his lawn. BTW - The 1/2 diameter cored plugs take forever to blend back into the lawn. At least the ones I see in the bushes at golf courses.
Wayne... I used to do mine every year with a power aerator (rented from the base) and 4-5 neighbors would chip in. The main reason was that all the good topsoil was stripped off by the developer and replaced with...well...junk dirt. Used to be a pig farm so you know that top soil was rich stuff. But it was hard clay 6-8 below what they placed. Good soil consists of about 25-40% sand as I remember, it would take a lot of sand for the average yard (I have all the coarse sand you need out here, thats what they call top soil...lol)...even more important is the organics like humus and compost. Not arguing....just an opinion.
Yeah, I guess I'm jaded by my background, too much sand here already; we need more organic material in the soil. I have no experience with a clay soil.
Clay is nasty stuff. That's all we have here. It doesn't drain, it doesn't breathe, it's heavy as hell, and it's a total b!tch to work with - especially when even the slightest bit moist because it sticks to everything. You have to be REALLY careful planting in it because if you put in a transplant (which is in a plug of light/loose potting mix), any water you give it will just sit around the roots and drown the plant. I killed two 7 foot Japanese maples before I figured that one out (I thought they were diseased when I bought them). Basically everything has to be started from seed unless you have amended the entire garden - and lots of coarse sand is what you start with. As for being harmful to the grass? Meh. Basically all that grows here (and survives the summer) is Bermuda, which you cant kill even if you try. It's a rhizome grass like Kentucky bluegrass that regenerates like kudzu. Even Roundup has a tough time with it. Even if you kill off the tops, if you till it under and there is even a scrap of root that is still alive it will regenerate and the whole area will be covered in grass again within a few months. Non-rhizome grasses are individual plants, so coring out one does not affect its neighbor, and the root mat is going to be a little deeper than the plugger can reach.
mitch17: jerseymatt was right on. Also, the sand in the holes will permit the remaining lawn roots to expand faster and easier.
Tags: much, aeration, lawn, aerate lawn, break down, coarse sand, gives grass, gives grass time, golf courses, grass time, into holes, lawn least
Interested in installing (or having installed) a generator interlock or transfer switch for my home. Main panel is 200A, Square D Homeline. I like the interlock setup as opposed to a transfer switch because it gives me more flexibility to pick and choose circuits I might want to run off my 6000W generator in an emergency. They are available for this panel, both from Square D and the alternative company that makes them. In the first two right hand slots of the panel, I have a breaker (2x40A) for an old 220 range which is no longer used (range has been converted to gas). The generator tie-in can go here. I'd like to stage my generator on my back porch when the power is out (a bit more secure and a little overhead cover from the roof line). Unfortunately, this is on the other side of the house (50') from my panel. I was wondering if I can use the existing 220 range wiring (BX) to connect my generator to the panel? The old range wiring ends on the other side of my porch. Would there be any issues with loss over this distance (50')?
As long as the range circuit was wired with 8-3 or 6-3 with ground, and you install a double pole 30A breaker, and a 30A power inlet box, and the interlock is properly installed (these interlocks are normally a full replacement dead-front with the interlock mechanism permanently riveted on, and require the generator breaker to be installed in the 1-3 or 2-4 position), then you should not have a problem. With #8 or #6 cable, you shouldn't have voltage drop issues over that distance. If the cable is two conductor+ground, or three conductor with no ground, then you can not use it. I'm not a big fan of this type of arrangement. Mainly because it gives you no indication of when the power comes back on, since the main breaker is pulled while the generator is running. It also requires you to shut off all the other breakers to prevent overloading, and it would be tempting to keep turning on 'just one more' until you stall (or smoke) the generator. A 'selected circuit' transfer panel doesn't require the main to be pulled, therefore you can keep a nightlight or something in a dead outlet to let you know the power is back on.
I'd like to stage my generator on my back porch when the power is out (a bit more secure and a little overhead cover from the roof This may be unsafe because of CO build up under the overhead and may be a building code violation because of distance to doors and windows. was wondering if I can use the existing 220 range wiring (BX) to connect my generator to the panel? The old range wiring ends on the other side of my porch. If it is #8, three conductor (red, white, black., and a type of AC (armored cable) with bonding strap or a ground wire yes. Note at 6000 watt #10 could be used with a 30a breaker.
Originally Posted by ray2047 This may be unsafe because of CO build up under the overhead and may be a building code violation because of distance to doors and windows. Agreed, my patio is adjacent to the porch so I could stage it there instead. Seems the mfg recommendation is to keep it dry, if possible, but it will more than likely be used during rain events.
Confirmed that it's three conductor armored cable with NO ground wire. BIG gauge, not sure exactly what size from looking at it (bigger than 10, I believe).
You could get one of those little rubbermaid garbage can enclosures (where it has the two doors in the front and flip up top) and set it off the porch..
Originally Posted by jogordo Confirmed that it's three conductor armored cable with NO ground wire. BIG gauge, not sure exactly what size from looking at it (bigger than 10, I believe). Then its a no-go.. You must have the ground wire, and you can not use the armor jacket as a ground. You will have to run a new cable. If it was on a 40A breaker, then it has to be at least #8. It is not uncommon for range circuits to be wired with #6 to handle up to 50A. #6 conductors are about the thickness of a pencil. Have you uncoiled the armor a little to see if there is a bonding wire that was simply cut flush?
Tags: generator, interlock, install, ground wire, range wiring, three conductor, with ground, armored cable, armored cable with, cable with, other side, when power
Model 139.53964SRT For the past few weeks occasionally i had to hit the opener several times before it would go down completely. it would start, go down to various levels and go back up. today it would only start to go down and immediately go back up. Check the tracks and looked for anything in the way. disconected the door and it still did it. still found no obstruction. I removed the cover and can see the back part of the motor (away from the gears) is trying to turn. There are 4 rubber stoppers towards the front that are being destroyed when this tries to turn. It hits a bolt from the housing, stopping the turn, hence the door goes up. to try and simplify this question, do you think the whole motor needs replacing or is there something else amiss? Thanks for your time.
is this a belt driven unit, a chain driven unit, a screw drive? those motors rarely fail. will the door close all the way when you hold the wall button? are the safety sensors lit? is the green one solid? please try to use as much detail as possible.
Check the tracks and looked for anything in the way. disconected the door and it still did it. still found no obstruction When you disconnect the door from the trolley the unit still short cycles.....correct ? Does this look like your motor ?
That is the motor. The cylinder section is trying to turn. Where the break is between the cylinder and the screw is where the rubber stoppers are/were. it seems to me that they are there to secure motor from turning, but with the motor trying to turn it is shearing them away. I dont want to keep trying it after i realized the motor is doing this as it seem to be doing more damage than good. thanx guys for your time. Darren, Belt driven. The sensors are lit and it wont go all the way down when holding the button.
that motor has a lifetime warranty and you should be able to get a new from Chamberlin/Sears free of charge. installing a new one is a breeze.
According to my manual, it is a 5 year warranty. i may have to buy a new motor. Thanx for your time.
i would double check that. in any case, it seems to me there are small screws that go through the rubber motor mounts. were there any screws rolling around in the case? i have a bunch of these openers @ the shop for parts, ill refresh my memory in the morning and get back to you.
Didn't see any screws, but one of the rubber stoppers was laying in the pan and the others look like they could go.
Tags: door, opener, motor, rubber stoppers, trying turn, your time, anything disconected, anything disconected door, anything disconected door still, anything disconected door still still, Check tracks, Check tracks looked
Hey, just curious on everyone's opinions on the best siding for my new shed? I woud like the best combination of value (read: cheap), longevity, quality. I'm mostly worried about water damage, which will be inflicted by my sprinklers hitting this sucker every day. I will try to fix them so they don't hit it as much, but it will be surrounded by some bushes and flowers which I would like watered, so it WILL get hit by the sprinklers. So I was thinking vinyl siding or something, but it seems pretty pricy. How would that cement board, or hardie board, or whatever it is hold up? Any other options?
haven't used it yet, but this is what i'll probably do on my shed in a couple weeks. from things i've read, this seems to be one of the best options for longevity. http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...3+90075+501496
Originally Posted by lgldrgdlr haven't used it yet, but this is what i'll probably do on my shed in a couple weeks. from things i've read, this seems to be one of the best options for longevity. http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...3+90075+501496 The home depot site couldn't find that item. What exactly was it?
I have the hardie board on my house and it has been on there for 9 years now and has never been repainted and still looks like new. It is a little pricey though about $9 for a piece 12' L and 8 W but it has to be overlapped so you only get about 6 to 7 inches of reveal depending on your preference. Hope this helps.
sorry about that. i didn't think about having to enter my zip when i searched their site. it's 4x8x1/3 hardipanel. the other reply is the same thing but he used the planks rather than the full sheets. just seach on home depot for siding and then panels
Originally Posted by lgldrgdlr sorry about that. i didn't think about having to enter my zip when i searched their site. it's 4x8x1/3 hardipanel. the other reply is the same thing but he used the planks rather than the full sheets. just seach on home depot for siding and then panels Ah yes, I've seen that stuff. They seem to go for around $28 a sheet, is that what you saw? I figure I'll need 11 sheets. (shed is 12X10X8, so 3 for each side, and 2 and 1/2 for the front and back.) So that comes to just over $300. And that doesn't include paint. That's more than I wanted to spend. But if you all think it will last really long, maybe I'll go for it. I don't know, so it really holds up against the sprinklers hitting it? (yes, I will adjust my sprinklers the best I can so they're not hitting it as much)
well, it's not wood, so no rotting to worry about due to water. if you do end up going that route, let me know what you think. by the way, did you pour a slab for you shed foundation or, if not, what did you do? mine is going to be the same size, and still debating what i'm going to do.
Originally Posted by lgldrgdlr well, it's not wood, so no rotting to worry about due to water. if you do end up going that route, let me know what you think. by the way, did you pour a slab for you shed foundation or, if not, what did you do? mine is going to be the same size, and still debating what i'm going to do. Yeah I'm pouring a slab. I haven't finished it yet. I've cleared the area, made the form, and layed down the gravel. I'm pouring cement this saturday. So it's not made of wood at all? So there's really no maintenance? Probably need to re-paint every few years or so, right?
here's what the description on homedepot.com says: Because of its structural strength, this panel may be used as a shear panel siding. It can also help you achieve a board and batten siding look when combined with planks. All styles are pre-primed with sealer and primer. This proprietary process ensures uniform coverage, which provides an excellent surface for paints and resists fungus and mildew. Fire Resistant Will not Rot, Warp, Buckle Tested to withstand 140 mph winds Paint lasts 2-3 times longer than wood Termite and Insect Resistant Installs and cuts like wood Pre-Primed and ready to paint MFG Brand Name : HardiPanel MFG Model # : 217863 MFG Part # : 217863 Product Longevity : 50 Profile : Specialty so i would imagine, like any outdoor painted surface, it would need repainting. but how often, i don't know.
Originally Posted by lgldrgdlr here's what the description on homedepot.com says: Because of its structural strength, this panel may be used as a shear panel siding. It can also help you achieve a board and batten siding look when combined with planks. All styles are pre-primed with sealer and primer. This proprietary process ensures uniform coverage, which provides an excellent surface for paints and resists fungus and mildew. Fire Resistant Will not Rot, Warp, Buckle Tested to withstand 140 mph winds Paint lasts 2-3 times longer than wood Termite and Insect Resistant Installs and cuts like wood Pre-Primed and ready to paint MFG Brand Name : HardiPanel MFG Model # : 217863 MFG Part # : 217863 Product Longevity : 50 Profile : Specialty so i would imagine, like any outdoor painted surface, it would need repainting. but how often, i don't know. Cool, thanks. I may consider that hardipanel stuff. I really wish I could find some decent used siding that someone's getting rid of!
paqman, cheap, longevity, quality. CHOOSE ANY TWO!! If you want to put up something once, paint it, let the sprinklers do their thing with it and still not worry about it, cheap isn't in the mix. If you wnat longevity and quality, cheap isn't in the mix. If you want cheap, longevity and quality are probably out the window.
Originally Posted by lefty paqman, cheap, longevity, quality. CHOOSE ANY TWO!! If you want to put up something once, paint it, let the sprinklers do their thing with it and still not worry about it, cheap isn't in the mix. If you wnat longevity and quality, cheap isn't in the mix. If you want cheap, longevity and quality are probably out the window. I have a hard time believing that. Yes I know that you get what you pay for, and quality often comes with a premium price, but there's always a moderately priced option that is also high quality. That's called value.
Ok, so in shopping around for siding, I've come down to two options, vinyl, and hardipanel. I've figured out that I would actually need 15 panels of hardipanel (I wasn't including the part right under the pitched parts of the roof, the gable?) Anyway, at $28.88 a panel, that would run me about 430 bucks. To purchase vinyl at home depot or lowes, which runs about $7.66 a strip for the cheapest stuff, would end up being $410, not counting j-channel, starter stips, and all that stuff, so I figure another $50, so maybe $460 for vinyl. I'm thinking vinyl. But there has GOT to be another place to purchase vinyl siding for cheaper than home depot and lowes! Every siding place I call says they only do installations, they aren't distributors. So what types of places can I look to find vinyl siding cheaper?
paqman, I'm a contractor who does decks, patio covers, replacement windows, siding, etc. (a home improvement contractor.) I buy my vinyl siding from a distributor. They won't sell to ANYBODY other than one of their authorized installers. As an authorized installer, I CANNOT sell vinyl siding to a homeowner who wants to do it themselves. If I buy it, I install it!! Good luck finding an authorized installer who will do otherwise!! If I get caught by the distributor buying from them and reselling to a homeowner, I lose my authorized installer status with them. They WILL NOT sell again to me, EVER!! I'm not going to risk losing $50K to $100K of my business every year to make a $500 'under the table' sale to a homeowner. I've never checked at the local Orange or Blue box -- I don't know if I (as a homeowner) could buy vinyl siding there or not. I know I can walk into either one of them and get Hardi products.
Originally Posted by lefty paqman, I'm a contractor who does decks, patio covers, replacement windows, siding, etc. (a home improvement contractor.) I buy my vinyl siding from a distributor. They won't sell to ANYBODY other than one of their authorized installers. As an authorized installer, I CANNOT sell vinyl siding to a homeowner who wants to do it themselves. If I buy it, I install it!! Good luck finding an authorized installer who will do otherwise!! If I get caught by the distributor buying from them and reselling to a homeowner, I lose my authorized installer status with them. They WILL NOT sell again to me, EVER!! I'm not going to risk losing $50K to $100K of my business every year to make a $500 'under the table' sale to a homeowner. I've never checked at the local Orange or Blue box -- I don't know if I (as a homeowner) could buy vinyl siding there or not. I know I can walk into either one of them and get Hardi products. I'm not trying to break any rules or anything, just trying to find a better deal. I understand there are distributors who only sell to authorized installers. I'm not going to go to them. But is that it besides the big box stores? There is no one else out there that sells siding to the average joe? I have a hard time believing that's my only choice!
Tags: best, siding, shed, vinyl siding, longevity quality, authorized installer, Originally Posted, cheap longevity, cheap longevity quality, home depot, Originally Posted lgldrgdlr, Posted lgldrgdlr
I'v had my Honey LYNXR system working just fine for 9 months now. I decided today to get the 5804 4 button keyfob working. I read all the manuals a few times, wrote out the programming options and buttons and gave it a whirl. All I wanted to do was program the on and off buttons on the keyfob to arm and disarm the alarm. I was able to get the off/disarm button to work. When I go and program the on/arm button, I get to the step where I put in my serial # - but it won't take it. Just a long beep and I'm staring at the 1A ENROLL MODE again. After many attempts, I tried just putting in a different 7 digits - and it took it... but not the serial number of the keyfob that I already put in for the other zone. Each zone (I'm using 26 27) must have a serial number assigned to it, correct? I don't see any options around that. I'm using the same keyfob for both zones, so the same serial number goes in the zone setup - but it appears to accept only 1 unique serial number. I've spent hours on this and I'm stumped. What am I missing here? Any and all help/advice here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Keyfobs use 1 serial number and 4 different loop numbers. A 4 button keyfob takes up 4 consecutive zones. You have to start with a zone number past the existing zones already in the system.
Originally Posted by MrRonFL Keyfobs use 1 serial number and 4 different loop numbers. A 4 button keyfob takes up 4 consecutive zones. You have to start with a zone number past the existing zones already in the system. start with a zone number past the existing... meaning past the ones already in use in the system? I have only programmed in zones 2-5 in my system. In my documentation it says zones 26-41 are Button zones, is that correct? I tried setting up zone 26: 26 21 10 5 3 S/N and zone 27 27 22 10 5 2 S/N zone 27 is OK, but zone 26 will not take the serial number, it just goes back to the 1A ENROLL MODE. If I put a diff 7 digit number, it takes it. Do they have to be setup sequentially? So 26 has to go in first, then 27? I'm sure what I am doing wrong is staring me in the face. Thanks again for any help! - Steve
Yes, they set up sequentially. All you change on the later zone numbers is the loop number to match the button, and the zone type. Lets try a different tack since my crystal ball is on the fritz: List out the keystrokes you have been entering; that way we can see if you are missing or adding a step.
I got it to work, although still a bit of a mystery. My docs say the allowable zone numbers for the keyfob are 26-29, 30-33, 34-37, 38-41. I was trying to use 26 and 27 for enable/disable. 26, every step worked except it would not take the serial number. Just a long beep. 27, every step worked. I cleared zones 26 and 27, then tried using 30 31. Both worked, took the serial number and everything, the keyfob works. Maybe 26 isn't really useable for the keyfob? Maybe the docs are missing something with the zone numbering, or again, I was just hitting something wrong with it - over and over. Thanks for the help in trying to solve this one, much appreciated!
To MrRonFL You seem to know alot about Honeywell lynx. I retired a few years ago from alarm business but used only hardwired Nappco panels. A friend asked if I could get an alarm for his daughter who moved into apartment. I went to distributer that I know asked about a cheap wireless alarm, He sold us a Honeywell lynx-plus sia. I got it installed and 3 out of 4 sensors are working ok. 1 wasn't working as suppose to as I programed it it got worse. I just don't quite understand the programing. I think I need to delete it and then reprogram it. Question 1. is how do I add a hard wire contact to 5816 sensor so both internal and external contacts will function. Question 2. how do I get out of program mode without removing power, *99 doesn't work to get out of *56 program. Question 3. how do I program one of key-fob buttons to be an audible panic. Question 4. can the audible beeping count down be turned off when armed away. Thank you
I am hoping you actually got an installer manual with your product... To exit zone programming, you enter 00 when you return to the zone number prompt. To use both the hardwire input and the built in contact, you have to enroll it once with loop 1 (the hardwire input) and then copy the same serial number with Loop 2 (the built in contact). For that one you need to read through the *56 instructions, and then we can help you with any steps that don't make sense (while not difficult, it's sufficiently detailed out, that I am _not_ going to retype it). Much the same goes for the transmitter button. You have to program the zone type for that button (loop number) as type 7 instead of type 6.
I have new 5804 and 5804E keyfobs to add for ease of seniors in/out of my house. I have all the manuals that previous homeowner left me, but cant get 4112 or the old owners code to put system into programming mode, old APX32ensia . Several ?s. 1 Is there a way to get system to tell me what was used? 2 I tried to power down, but to no success. 3 I know I will have more questions. Anne
wat31: field 37 will allow you to turn off the beeping. *37 0,1 anne: be sure to disconnect the battery and the power both. swu30: zone 26 is def. used for the fob. Did you have a serial number programmed there already? It would have to be deleted (delete the zone) before you can reprogram it. Otherwise, when it says enroll mode you enter 1 and then it says serial number, you enter the serial. If the fob serial number is programmed in a diff. zone location with the same loop then it will not accept it. At least you did get it to work tho. Good luck!
Tags: 5804, keyfob, honeywell, lynxr, system, serial number, with zone, zone number, already system, button keyfob, number past, number past existing, past existing, start with
The Harley-Davidson Street Glide FLHX is a cruising style motorcycle. With standard equipment like a fairing to keep the wind off of you as you roll down the open road and hard pack storage above the rear wheel, this bike is designed for extended road trips.
Motor
The 2007 Harley-Davidson Street Glide FLHX is powered by a V-Twin engine with a 95.18 mm bore and a 111.13 mm stroke. The motor has a 9.2 to 1 compression ratio and offers 1585 cc of displacement. Power is delivered to the rear wheel via a drive belt, and the gearbox offers six speeds.
Dimensions
The fork rake on the FLHX is 26 degrees with a 157.5-millimeter trail, and the wheelbase is 63.5 inches with a seat height of 27.3 inches. The front suspension provides 4.6 inches of travel at the front wheel, while the rear wheel offers two inches of shock absorption via its suspension mechanism.
Tires
This American-built highway cruiser rides on a MT90B-16 front tire and a MT85B-16 rear tire. In more simple terms, both tires are 16 inches in diameter, and 6.15 and 5.67 inches in width, respectively. The front tire of this motorcycle has a 72H speed rating, while the rear tire has a 77H speed rating, allowing it to safely cruise at speeds of up to 130 mph.
A faucet's internal parts wear out, requiring replacement.
The American Standard fixture company prides itself on its faucets. All new faucets are sold with a warranty against defective materials or workmanship. However, all American Standard faucets are mechanical devices. Like all mechanical devices, parts wear out. The company understands this, so it has a well-stocked parts department in case your Hampton spout needs parts.
Aerators
Because tap water has dissolved minerals, the aerator screen may wear out or become clogged. This is a common repair area. If you need an aerator or screen, the American Standard company carries a variety of aerators. Since many models in the Hampton line exist, you have to determine the exact part number. This is usually stamped on the outside of your aerator ring. If the part number is worn off, American Standard has a customer service number. Call them to determine the model you have.
Cable Assemblies
If your Hampton spout has a lever to close the drain, the cable may eventually break. If so, the lever on the spout will not close the drain flap. American Standard stocks the cable assembly. Changing the cable is a little tricky, because you will have to crawl below the vanity or sink to get at the attachment points.
Diverter
If your spout is leaking at the diverter, more than likely the internal mechanism wore out or corroded. The diverter is the part below the handle that controls water flow. Understanding hard water corrosion, American Standard stocks the replacement parts. Again, your specific Hampton faucet should have the part number stamped on the side of the diverter assembly. American Standard stocks both single handle and dual handle diverters.
Spout Sealing Rings
If your spout is leaking at the base where it meets the faucet body, the sealing O-rings are decayed. The culprit is hard water that has corroded the rubber. If this is the case, American Standard has both an entire seal kit or just the main O-ring that has a square cross section.
Spouts
If your spout is worn out completely, American Standard offers replacement spouts. You will have to match up an exact spout to your Hampton faucet. However, you may want to customize the faucet and obtain a different spout that matches up with the faucet body.
A garage door opener simplifies leaving and arriving.
Wayne Dalton is a brand of garage door openers, doors and storm protection systems for commercial and residential areas. The Wayne Dalton idrive is a system that mounts on the counterbalance above the inside of a garage door. The unit features a security arm that locks the door manually after it is closed. Small issues with your idrive unit may cause the door to malfunction, but you can troubleshoot many of them without having to call for service.
Instructions
1. Inspect the power cord at the wall outlet to ensure it is plugged in securely if the unit doesn't respond to the wall station or transmitter.
2. Replace the batteries in the transmitter or program it according to the manufacturer's directions if the wall stations controls the door but the transmitter doesn't work.
3. Look to see if a circuit breaker has tripped or a fuse has blown, if the door won't respond to the transmitter or the wall station. Replace the fuse or reset the breaker, if necessary.
4. Realign the safety sensor so it is straight or clear the garage door path of any obstructions if the door stops during operation, or reverses its path. The idrive unit will beep three or four times to signal the problem.
5. Wait for one minute for the unit to reset itself if you've cycled the door open and closed more than eight times within five minutes. Apply constant pressure to the wall switch up and down buttons to ensure the door keeps moving.
A privacy fence keeps out pests, shields you from the prying eyes of others or hides unsightly views outside of your yard. But having a privacy fence means you have to do some periodic maintenance, replacing broken boards, called slats, and even whole panels. It is a good idea to have one or two helpers, as the panels can be quite heavy, but the process is not labor intensive.
Instructions
1. You should examine the existing privacy fence carefully. In many cases, you may be able to simply replace individual slats, which can save you a lot of money on fence repair. For those sections that you need to completely replace, use the flat bar and a hammer to remove the old nails at each end of the panel. This reveals the nails that attach the cross supports on back of the slats to the posts. Remove those nails from each of the cross members. If you prefer, you can pry the panels loose with a crow bar, but it is still important that you remove all the nails, for safety reasons.
2. Inspect your fence posts carefully. Look for signs of termites or decay in the posts, especially at ground level. Use a nail and poke into any dubious spots to test the solidity of the wood. If you have damaged posts, it will be much easier to replace them while the panels are removed than to have to repeat the entire process at a later date. For the best results, dig post holes 12 inches larger than the post size, and fill around posts with concrete.
3. Attach a string between the two end posts of the fence being replaced, across the top edge of where the fence panels will go. Stretch the string taut, pulling it until there is no sag in the line. Measure down from this line and grade the path of the fence, removing any bumps and filling dips that would upset the level of the fence when it is installed.
4. Remove the two outside slats of your new fence panels. Stand a panel up where it will be placed, with the top of the slats just touching the string. Attach the cross members to the fence posts using 16d nails. Step back several yards from the panel and observe how well it lines up with the panels on either side of it as you go. Try to keep the slat tops as close to the string as you can, but keeping the actual fence line straight is the primary concern.
5. Use 6d nails to attach the individual slats that you removed to hang the panel. Replace any single slats that need to be replaced in other parts of the fence. You can paint the fence, or allow the new slats and panels to weather naturally. New panels will resemble existing untreated panels after several months.
Tips Warnings
Pick up a few extra fence slats, and allow them to weather with the fence for three to six weeks, and then store them for future repairs. Use slats from removed fence panels to build planters or decorative displays for your garden and patio.
Find Moen kitchen faucets in new home construction as well as in older homes where plumbing upgrades are part of remodeling projects. Cartridge-style faucets have become popular, especially in locations where hard tap water corrodes kitchen and bath fixtures. Replacing a cartridge in a Moen kitchen faucet addresses valve corrosion along with a variety of other faucet issues including drips and sticky valve operation. Replacement kits are available that include everything you need to perform the work.
Instructions
1. Turn off the water supply to the faucet. If there are no faucet shut-off valves beneath the sink, turn the supply off at the main water valve for the house.
2. Open the faucet to release any pressure within the water lines. Leave the faucet handle open.
3. Remove the faucet handle by loosening the setscrew with the appropriate size hex wrench. Find setscrew in a recessed opening near the base of the handle. Pull the handle up and from the handle adapter.
4. Remove the handle adapter and its two washer rings using lockjaw pliers. Turn the adapter counterclockwise. Remove the two washer rings from the body of the faucet.
5. Locate the cartridge-retaining clip at the upper rear of the cartridge. The clip is fork-shaped and removed by pulling it straight back with needle nose pliers.
6. Remove the cartridge washer and the faucet-handle limit stop by lifting them up and out from the faucet body.
7. Insert the Moen cartridge removal tool included in the replacement kit onto the stem ears of the cartridge. Grip the tool with the lockjaw pliers and twist the cartridge back and forth to loosen it.
8. Remove the tool from the stem. Pull the cartridge straight up and out of the faucet.
9. Insert the replacement Moen cartridge into the faucet. Ensure that the ears of the cartridge line up with the retaining clip notch at the rear of the faucet.
10. Replace the washer and the limit stop onto the top of the cartridge.
11. Install the retaining clip by pushing it into place with the tip of a flathead screwdriver. Ensure the clip fully seats. Replace the two washer rings onto the faucet body.
12. Secure the handle adapter to the faucet. Tighten the adapter by turning it clockwise with the lockjaw pliers.
13. Replace the handle and tighten the setscrew clockwise with a hex wrench.
14. Restore water pressure. Leave the faucet in the open position for 15 seconds. This will bleed out any residual air from the supply pipes.
15. Shut the faucet off and perform a leak check.
Tips Warnings
Moen manufactures several different types of cartridge kitchen faucets. Obtain a replacement kit at a local hardware store or home center. Follow the directions for your particular model.
There are a number of products available that can give your boots better traction.
Plastic soled boots provide a soft, cushioned step but can also be slippery to walk on in some conditions, particularly snow and ice. Rainy conditions may also pose a problem when plastics soles are wet, creating a slippery surface that can result in a slip and fall.
Sole grips, which are rugged adhesives that stick to the bottom of the sole, can provide better traction for plastic sole boots. This a good option for fashion boots used in everyday conditions. Rubber boot grips that fit over the sole of the shoe are ideal for making work boots less slippery in tough weather conditions. These sturdy sole covers can be adjusted for better support and often include small carbide spikes for better traction on snow and ice. Both of these aids are available online or in most shoe stores. They can be applied to most boots quickly and easily.
Instructions
Instructions
1. Clean the soles of the boots to before applying adhesive sole grips. Be sure to remove all dirt and debris.
2. Dry the soles thoroughly. Then place the sole grips in the center of the sole on each boot.
3. Slip rubber boot grips over the soles of each boot. Adjust the grips to ensure they are evenly affixed to each sole.
4. Be sure the carbide spikes are positioned correctly. These spikes can be removed if necessary.
Instead of replacing Venetian blinds that are not working properly, you might try to repair them instead. A few materials and a little time may save money if your blinds are expensive blinds.
Instructions
1. Lower the blinds and open the slats to the fully open position.
2. Remove the blinds from the mounting brackets at the top of the window. Lay the blinds out flat in front of you.
3. Remove the end caps. Remove the cover on the bottom rail to locate the knots or hardware that connects the lift cord and the ladder string to the bottom rail of the blinds.
4. Disconnect the lift cord connections as they connect to the bottom rail.
5. Pull the lift cords up through the venetian blind slats so that you can remove any damaged blind slats. Remove the necessary slats and place the new slats onto the ladders of the blinds. If not replacing the lift cords, thread the lift cords back down and reconnect them where they belong on the bottom rail.
6. Pull the lift cords all the way up to the top of the blinds to replace, if necessary. Pull both ends of the lift cord all the way up and over the pulleys. Then remove the lift cords by pulling them out.
7. Insert the ends of a new lift cord down through the top and over the top pulley. One end of the lift cord goes over the next pulley and the other end crosses the top to the pulley on the other side of the blinds. Both lift cords need to be passed down through the slats through the entire length of the blinds where they will be secured at the bottom rail. Knot the lift cords or secure into the hardware. Reinstall the cover and end caps of the bottom rail.
8. Re-hang the blind. It may be necessary to level the bottom rail if the lift cords were replaced. Look for an equalizing buckle to adjust for the lift cords when you have the bottom rail even. Trim the lift cords, if desired.
Ostrich boots are one of the most comfortable leather boots you can buy. The leather is durable and comes in many colors. These boots are considered exotic because they are less common and tend to cost more than regular cowhide boots. Taking care of your ostrich boots and cleaning them on a regular basis can help preserve the life of your boots as well as the look of them.
Instructions
1. Remove all the loose dirt and dust you see on your boots. This can be done with a brush or cloth.
2. Clean your boots using an oil-based leather cleaner or a lanolin-based leather conditioner. Use a clean cloth to apply it. Be sure to wipe away any excess cleaner or conditioner from the surface, sole (unless the sole is synthetic) and stitches.
3. Carefully select and apply a boot color cream. This can help stop the ostrich skin's color from fading. Buff the leather using a soft brush or soft, clean cloth. Do this until a luster is obtained.
4. Apply a thin coat of paste polish if you have darker-colored ostrich boots. Again, buff the boots using a brush or cloth.
Grohe kitchen faucets have a spring that slides over the hose. This spring is connected to a stop which prevents the hose from being pulled too far from the spout. It's a feature that protects the hose from damage and wear, so attaching the spring is an important part of the installation procedure. The entire process only takes a few steps, a few basic tools, and a relatively short time to complete.
Instructions
1. Connect your faucet sprayer hose to the spray head as you normally would during the installation by threading the connector onto the base of the sprayer, and turning it clockwise to tighten it.
2. Push the hose down through the faucet's body cavity and into the sink cabinet area.
3. Push the hose through one of the two circular openings in the stop, and slide the spring over the hose.
4. Insert the end of the hose back through the other circular opening in the stop so the stop holds the spring on the hose. The hose should loop down below the stop. If not, remove the hose and re-insert it with the spring so it does.
5. Connect the coupling to the end of the hose and turn it clockwise to tighten it. Slide the sheath of the coupling back and push the coupling into the base of the faucet, over the connector. The coupling snaps into place when the sheath is released.
There are many career opportunities for graduates of geology programs.
Whether exploring the depths of the oceans, combing the desert in search of alien rocks or simply teaching others about the mechanics of planet earth, a person with a geology degree has a range of possible career choices. Careers in geology are best suited for those who work well with others and do not mind getting their feet dirty as jobs typically require significant time in the field followed by long hours in the lab.
Consultants
According to the United States Bureau of Labor Statistics, about 25 percent of geologists are employed as consultants to environmental, architectural and engineering firms. As environmental degradation increases and regulation becomes more stringent, the services of consultants will remain in strong demand. Many states have professional license programs that can make a geologist more credible to firms searching for a consultant, but these program vary by state and are not always required for work.
Natural Resource Explorer
The American Geological Institute (AGI) notes that employment in this field fluctuates greatly depending on availability and demand for natural resources, especially in the petroleum and gas industry. The demand for geologists who can find new resource deposits is expected to grow, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics. Do not, however, expect to get a high-paying job in resource exploration right out of college. Typically, several years of field experience in the industry is required by most companies to compensate for lack of an advanced degree, according to the AGI.
Researcher/Lab Technician
Many geology graduates can find work as researchers or lab technicians for special projects with international organizations, private institutions and federal and state agencies. The demand for trained geologists to aid in research that aims to alleviate many environmental pressures facing societies today is expected to grow as impacts from climate change become more visible around the world, according to the AGI.
Teacher
As a degree in geology requires one to study the foundational sciences, graduates are well qualified to teach general science at a range of institutions, from museums to public high schools. Often, a teaching license is required to teach in public schools in addition to holding a bachelor's degree (depending on the state), but the opportunities to teach in the field or in the classroom abound for geologists interested in education.
Beach-themed crafts will keep the kids busy at your next party.
If you have combed the breakers of your imagination and need something new to keep the kids busy at your next beach party, set up creative ports of call, complete with visa stamps and a travel itinerary. After every child visits each craft port, paddle into the kitchen to finish the party with a few edible beach-themed crafts. Each child who visits every port receives an extra-special souvenir of his world tour.
Chocolate Sandal Candles
So good you'll eat your shoes...
Fill a large round roasting pan with raw sugar crystals or loosely packed brown sugar. Give the children a beach-sandal-shaped candy mold, available at a confectioner's supply store, to press into the sugar to create a sand cast. Have each child loop red shoestring licorice around a pencil and place it across the depression in the sugar to be the wick.
Melt white chocolate over low heat in a double boiler until thin and runny. Fill each sandal-shaped depression in the brown sugar with the melted white chocolate. Allow the candles to harden before removing them from the sand. Place each sandal candle in a clear plastic confectioner's bag, and tie it with curling ribbon.
Rescue Ring Mini Cakes
Rescue ring-shaped mini tube cakes save the day.
Find nonstick mini tube-cake pans at a confectioner or bakery supply store. Help the children mix one package instant pudding of their choice with one cup milk before adding it to a store-bought cake mix. Ask the children to stir the batter until the cake mix and pudding are well-blended but still a little lumpy.
Help younger children pour their mix into mini tube-cake pans. Older children will usually be able to pour without assistance. Bake according to the package directions for cupcakes rather than full-size cakes. Pop the cakes from the pans, and allow them to cool to room temperature before icing them to resemble rescue rings.
Beach Scene Wall Posters
Sand toy shapes help create these beach collages.
Ask older children to help younger ones glue a sand bucket cutout to an 11-inch-by-14-inch sheet of light brown construction paper. Add shovel and rake cutouts in contrasting colors. Provide crayons so that the children can add their favorite beach and ocean animals.
Give each child a glue stick and a cup of sand. Demonstrate add food coloring to the sand, and stir it with a craft stick. Help each child write her name with the glue stick before shaking the colored sand over the lines.
Help each child use a hole punch in the top right and left corners of their beach scene posters. Provide yarn or parachute cord to string through the holes to make a hanger. Allow the posters to dry while finishing other crafts.
Shell Creature Fridge Magnets
Any seashell can become a googly-eyed fridge critter.
Give each child a seashell, some googly eyes and a felt cutout shaped like crab legs. Provide clear craft glue to attach the eyes and legs to the shells. Add a piece of self-sticking magnet tape to the back of each shell creature.
Your Home Embassy
Provide 4-inch-by-8-inch sheets of leather-look heavy paper folded in half across the 8-inch side to use as passport covers. Give each child two sheets of 4-inch-by-8-inch paper to fold in half and place inside the passports before you staple them.
Provide sea creature stampers and blue ink at each craft station. Stamp each child's passport as they complete a craft. Give each child a certificate declaring them an honorary citizen of Your Home complete with the ambassador's signature.
I've got a 96 Zenith Inteq big screen projection tv and no one around here will touch it so what I'm going to have to do is do it myself. I found a place to get the service manual now i just need to know what is wrong with it. The picture has compressed from the top left to top right and then the bottom left to the bottom right....looks like this )( only horizontal and every once in a while a picture will come up in there but usually it's black...the )( stripes on there are green, blue, yellow and red....help please i have no idea what i'm doing but willing to figure it out cause i'm out of options.
You have a vertical deflection problem. Most of the time this is probably caused by a bad capacitor or maybe a bad connection in the yoke. It maybe cheaper in your time to just replace all the electrolytic caps in the vertical deflection circuitry rather trying to locate the bad one. Money wise it would still only be a few bucks to replace them all. Be very careful as you are dealing with potentially deadly voltages, so if you aren't sure discharge them, maybe you should let somebody else do the work.
Disclaimer: i realize that this is a minor annoyance rather than a problem, and I apologize for asking...but.. I have an American Standard Champion 4 toilet, which I installed in April, 2010. it is working fine, with one minor exception- the bolts that hold the seat in place seem to work loose over time. Not a big deal, in fact I keep a screwdriver in the vanity, and it is a 1 minute fix. It does seem to be occurring a bit more frequently My questions: Will this get worse? Would new mounting screws (the plastic ones) help? Does anybody have any suggestions? Thanks, and as I said, sorry to bring such a minor problem to the forum!
Stop apologizing. A wobbly toilet seat is a serious issue. A man must feel confident and secure on his throne!! I suspect that the nuts on the seat bolts have become worn, and every time they work loose they get worn more and more. As such, this problem will never get better w/o replacements. Personally I'd steer clear of the plastic ones simply from strength concerns - I'm a big guy (300lbs) and so I go for metal bolts every time: Toilet Seat Hinge Bolts (2-Pack)-9DD0088653 at The Home Depot $3.00 and 5 minutes should fix this problem. Look for them in the Toilet Seat Repair aisle in plumbing.
Sometimes...the holes in the bowl are much bigger than they need to be. I've used short lengths of plastic tubing as sleeves over the bolts where they pass through the ceramic to prevent it from wiggling, which seemed to fix the loosening and shifting issue.
I agree with Gunguy. I have Kohler toilet seats with the anti slam feature. The bolts for the seats have plastic bushings that compensate for the oversized holes. I haven't had a loosening problem since switching to these seats.
Maybe this is more epidemic than we thought. My solution ended up being silicone. I filled the hole around the bolt to eliminate any excess movement and the MIL stopped complaining about the seat being loose. I didn't tell her I fixed it so I know the problem went away. Bud
Tags: toilet, seat, loose, every time, plastic ones, this problem, Toilet Seat, work loose
Has anyone applied this stuff on your garage floor? How has it held up?
I recently bought some from Lowes...still waiting for the weather t warm up to apply it...
A good friend of mine used the rustoleum product on his floor and he loves it. I am going to HD today to pick up their kit for 500 sq ft of coverage. One important factor he mentioned was to make sure your floor is clean. I believe the kit contains everything you need.
I just got done painting the walls of my garage and am about to go buy some floor paint. Hopefully the people @ Lowe's or HD can recommend everything I will need for this project. I have also heard that you need to get the floor VERY clean. After I am finished (hopefully this weekend) I'll let everyone know how it turned out. THREAD EDITED: Forum Monitors Note: This post has been edited. E-mail address only removed from signature. Kindly use the forum topics only, to exchange information. Email contact addresses are not allowed in the forum topics.
I put grey expoxy shield on last summer. It was a pain as far as prep work but it work and has held up. No cracks or missing pieces from tires. Looks very nice. However, there is one big drawback. It is very, very slippery when wet. Both my 4 year old son and wife slipped multiple times on small amounts of slush this past winter. I went back to the instructions to see if it ever mentioned anything about adding some non-slip / skid additive. It did not mention anything. I had not used the decorative chips that come with the kit. I e-mailed R-O tech support. I complained that nowhere in the instructions does it warn you. The person from R-O told me to reapply a second coat but to use a non-skid additive this time. They were nice in sending me a check for the cost of the second coat and the additive. However, I still have my work cut out for me as they want me to sand the 1st coat using 60 grit. He confirmed that the chips in the kit are decreative only and will not make it less slippery. (which is interesting as they now say on their website to add those chips to make a non-slip surface) So, is it a good product? Yes, if you add the additive. It has finally gotten warm enough here in Wisconsin to use the prduct. This weekend I intend to do the sanding and the 2nd coat. The question I have for anyone reading this is if they have a recommendation for non-skid additives. I bought a package of Behr non-skid additive and a package of TreadTex made by Homax. When I squueze the bag of Behr, it feels like very small grains. Almost like a bag of flour. When I squees the bag of TreadTex, it feels like much bigger granulas (like a bag of raw sugar). I'm afraid the Behr will not make enough of a difference.
Good post badger, I was wondering if the slipperyness would be an issue. Has anyone looked at any similar products from other manufacturers? Rustoleum seems to be the favorite, but it is also expensive. I will probably need three gallons or so to do my garage. The next question: Is it worth it, and would you recommend it?
Did Rustoleum technical support recommend a specific manufacturer for a non-skid additive?
I called Rustoleum technical support to solicit their recommendation of a specific non-skid additive. The representative could not offer a specific recommendation. When pressed, he mentioned VALSPAR as the one brand he could remember. I did not press my luck by asking him such impertinent questions such as: [1] How much non-skid additive must I add to make it a safe surface? [2] Should I add the non-skid additive BEFORE (or AFTER) waiting for the mixed epoxy to become ready to apply? [3] Will the introduction of a non-skid additive reduce the product's stated areal coverage? [4] If so, how might I estimate my actual requirements? Does anyone here have any suggestions on how I should proceed? Do you know of any sources (possibly a Rustoleum competitor) that might have this type of information?
to answer as many questions as i can about all your garage flooring needs I used this on my garage about two months ago i live in canada have four young kids and this stuff stands up to it To clean my floor i had to power wash it and scrub it with a scrubber as i had grease oil and rust plus some fire extingher spray all over I liked it and saw that their was no one out their doing it for people and found out that it can be quite lucritive their our other products out their all over they all need the same prep work but not all can be applied in one coat. have fun
I have been thinking about doing this for a few years and I am actually planning on doing it this year. I have been planning on using a product called U Coat-it. THey have a really nice demo on thier website. www.ucoatit.com It is a complete kit that comes with everyhting you need, even non-skid additive. It does seem to be on the high end in terms of cost. I have not priced the solutions at Home Depot yet. I am really looking for a durable finish as I do not want to do the floor more than once. I hope this was helpful.
i just applied the rustoleum 2 part epoxy - well so far only to 1/2 of the garage... it went on well and as mentioned was a bit of a pain to prep for it.. but the other paints all required a primer coat so this was the lesser of 2 evils.. so far it looks great... that ucoat it looks great but is about 2 times as expensive as the rustoleum.. the rustoleum cost me about 200$ for 1000 sq ft. the ucoatit cost 245 for 550 sq ft. a bit too pricey for me.
Originally Posted by Trbr81 Has anyone applied this stuff on your garage floor? How has it held up? I used Epoxy Shield in two garages last fall. In the garage that is heated, Epoxy Shield has held up well. I cleans easily and hasn't chipped when tools have dropped on it. One minor problem--it has flaked off the sill where it is exposed to the weather. Even with this problem, I love it. In the unheated garage, it was a disaster. Wherever salt water pooled from cars during the winter, the coating blistered and came off. Rust-Oleum refunded the cost of the material, but I have some work to do. (I intend to try multiple-cleaning, etching, using a binding primer, then Epoxy Shield on the bare areas, folowed by a second coat of Epoxy Shield on the entire floor.) By the way, I did a very thorough prep job in both garages. Other people have had much better results with less. My problems may have been due to the particular cement in the unheated garage.
Hi all, It's been about 3 months now since I applied the epoxy kit from HD. I think it was well worth the work since my house was brand new and didn't have any previous oil stains. I guess that hardest part of the job was waiting for 7 days for the paint to cure. I do see some chip paint marks in the floor from moving large heavy items. But, I guess I'll have to add another coat of paint in a couple of years. The floor is VERY VERY slippery, so I wished I added the non-slip additive. Hope this helps. I totally recommend the kit.
I have some moisture in the concrete of my garage floor. I wondered if anybody out there knows of a solution that would allow me to still use the Rustoleum Epoxy paint or a different type of garage floor paint. It's not really bad, but I don't want to apply any product if it's just going to peel away. Thanks
Last year my son and my wife used a 2 part epoxy on the floor of a new garage. It was rolled on with a roller and I made a mistake there. I did not use the right kind of roller and it turned out to be a bad job. It has nap all through the epoxy. It really looks bad. You only have about 30 minutes to work with it till it starts to set up. Have plenty of help!!!!!!!!!!!!!! As an example, It took 3 of us to do a 24'x24' garage and did not have any time for playing around. Havent found out remedy our situation yet. Good Luck!
How did you test for moisture? A simple way is take a 1' square piece of plastic and tape it on the concrete floor around all 4 edges so outside air does not enter the plastic. Leave overnite and check for moisture drops on the plastic in the morning. Very Simple!
I just applied the rustoleum epoxy on my garage floor. I used it in 85 degree temp and this made the epoxy very THIN, thinner than regular wall paint. Because of this it didn't seem to go on as thick and I ended up with a lot of extra. It seems to have turned out ok for the most part, except for the minor imperfections where the gloss levels don't match. I'm guessing this is because I used 3 seperate 250 sq. ft. kits and waited to mix them as I needed them just as the instructions say. I wish I woudl have mixxed them all at one time because I had a lot longer than the 1 hour working time the instructions specified. Reffering to the anti-slip additive....the instructions with mine clearly says that the floor will be slippery when wet, and that the chips don't necessarily make it any better. It also goes on to say that you can add the anti-slip additive after mixing the 2 parts together. It does not mention any difference in the coverage when using an additive. I'm not really concerned about this because this garage is primarily a workshop and I won't really be driving in and out in the winter. I did choose to use the paint chips, it seems that the chips would make the floor at least a little less slippery when wet, but I'm not sure.
I just used the product today on my 1 car garage (approx 240 sq ft). It covered the entire area with a little epoxy left over. I did take the advice of several folks on the forum and opted for the non-slip additive. I bought it at Lowe's. It comes in a pint can and is produced by Valspar. It really seems to have made the floor very skid resistant. The floor looks great. Now we'll see how well it holds up.
Jimmac, Can you describe the how the anti-slip additive affects the surface? Does surface seem very coarse? Are you able to kneel on the floor with-out the surface 'biting' into your skin? Thanks, Anthony Note: I helped instal the Rustolem paint in a friends garage about a year ago (we only used the decorative flakes, no anti-slip material). This was in Houston, in hot and humid weather. The results were great: the finish has held up well to lots of traffic, it also did a good job covering some minor cracks in the floor.
OK, scratch the sandblasting, my compressor wouldn't keep up anyway! What I'm doing right now to get the old paint off the floor is putting on some paint stripper, waiting about 1/2 hour, and then power washing. (I'm using a 2400 psi washer) Slow work but it's getting done. My question is this: Do you have to get EVERY little bit of paint off that floor or can little bits remain, like in the parts of the concrete that are sort of crumbling? Also, should the concrete be etched with muriatic acid? Any recommendations on primer? Should the concrete be leveled with some sort of filler after cleaning? How many coats of final epoxy? (I've been told two) Finally, are tire studs going to destroy the finish? (absolutely have to hhave studs on my car) Enough questions? thanks
Has anyone tried to apply this to a previously sealed garage floor? In tips area of the rustoleum website it says that it MIGHT NOT adhere properly to a sealed garage floor. I recently purchased the kit from HD, and i do not want to apply it to the floor if it wont stick right. Thanks in advance for your replies.
I am new to this so bear with me, I am thinking about using the Rustoleum Epoxy to coat my floor in my wood working shop in the basement. Probably will. The only refernces I have seen to Rustoleum Epoxy is in the Garage forum. My question is has anyone tried using muriatic acid to clean the concrete? I have used this for cleaning concrete for other purposes and it has worked well. Everything that I have read here stresses getting the floor very clean. Just a thought. Towbot
Don't know if muriatic acid will actually CLEAN concrete, I know it's used for ETCHING the concrete. (so the paint will stick, I guess) thanks,
Originally Posted by bmunger I have some moisture in the concrete of my garage floor. I wondered if anybody out there knows of a solution that would allow me to still use the Rustoleum Epoxy paint or a different type of garage floor paint. It's not really bad, but I don't want to apply any product if it's just going to peel away. Thanks As in any application the rule of thumb is to ensure the substrate is clean, sound and dry. Probably 90% of coating failures are due to poor preparation. There is a product called INNERSEAL made by Superior Products Int. II that works extemely well however it is an industrial product which would require ordering from an area distributor. It does exactly what the name says. It seals from the inside out. It also purges contaminents such as oils to the surface where it can then be simply washed away. This product will also restore old concrete that is badly deteriorated. We were able to solve a wet crawl space problem with this product. It was later discovered that there was an underground aquifier underneath the slab.
Originally Posted by analogmusicman OK, scratch the sandblasting, my compressor wouldn't keep up anyway! What I'm doing right now to get the old paint off the floor is putting on some paint stripper, waiting about 1/2 hour, and then power washing. (I'm using a 2400 psi washer) Slow work but it's getting done. My question is this: Do you have to get EVERY little bit of paint off that floor or can little bits remain, like in the parts of the concrete that are sort of crumbling? Also, should the concrete be etched with muriatic acid? Any recommendations on primer? Should the concrete be leveled with some sort of filler after cleaning? How many coats of final epoxy? (I've been told two) Finally, are tire studs going to destroy the finish? (absolutely have to hhave studs on my car) Enough questions? thanks As in any application the rule of thumb is to ensure the substrate is clean, sound and dry. Probably 90% of coating failures are due to poor preparation. Another rule of thumb is, If it's shiny then you need to rough it up Remember this type of product is far from bullet proof. It is going to wear over time depending on use and abuse. Unless you go to an industrial grade coating expect this to happen sooner than later. I personally prefer to use a coating that will last longer and will withstand abuse. I expect to pay more because I expect much more. Like anything else, you get what you pay for. Nothing cheap is good, nothing good is cheap
Originally Posted by Towbot I am new to this so bear with me, I am thinking about using the Rustoleum Epoxy to coat my floor in my wood working shop in the basement. Probably will. The only refernces I have seen to Rustoleum Epoxy is in the Garage forum. My question is has anyone tried using muriatic acid to clean the concrete? I have used this for cleaning concrete for other purposes and it has worked well. Everything that I have read here stresses getting the floor very clean. Just a thought. Towbot There are different types of concrete surfaces which require different types of preparation. A tight smooth substrate may require muriatic acid to create a profile for the coating to grab on to. It is not intended for cleaning which may require simple washing to water blast to wet sand blast depending on the condition of the substrate.
Originally Posted by anth_c Jimmac, Can you describe the how the anti-slip additive affects the surface? Does surface seem very coarse? Are you able to kneel on the floor with-out the surface 'biting' into your skin? Thanks, Anthony Note: I helped instal the Rustolem paint in a friends garage about a year ago (we only used the decorative flakes, no anti-slip material). This was in Houston, in hot and humid weather. The results were great: the finish has held up well to lots of traffic, it also did a good job covering some minor cracks in the floor. There are several non slip ingredients one may use such as sand, ceramics, and even crushed walnut shells. I would not recommend pre-mixing these into the coating as you cannot be gauranteed even dispersion. The proper way is to broadcast it by hand during the second coat where you would backroll it into the coating. There is a product called epotrac that can be pre-mixed and the particles rise to the surface. If you put too much particle in or a highly aggressive particle you will wear your tires over time and of course it will be difficult to kneel on without a mat. Also keep in mind the difficulty in cleaning the floor as it will grip and wear out your mops.
Originally Posted by joeox Hi all, It's been about 3 months now since I applied the epoxy kit from HD. I think it was well worth the work since my house was brand new and didn't have any previous oil stains. I guess that hardest part of the job was waiting for 7 days for the paint to cure. I do see some chip paint marks in the floor from moving large heavy items. But, I guess I'll have to add another coat of paint in a couple of years. The floor is VERY VERY slippery, so I wished I added the non-slip additive. Hope this helps. I totally recommend the kit. Come back in a year or two and tell us how it stands up. I should hope it still looks good after only 3 months after all you had the benefit of new concrete. This is hardly a challenge for even the cheaper products. If you really want a good product you have to be prepared to pay for it. You really do get what you pay for. I used a polyurethane enamel product 9.5 years ago and it is still exceptional. These off the shelf products are mere surface coatings which will fail over time depending on use. The coating I used penetrated deep into the substrate and anchored within the substrate. This of course was after doing proper preparation of the substrate which consisted of years of oil contamination among other automotive fluids. Sure I paid significantly more but I have higher expectations. I need only do the job once as opposed to every two years.
OK, First, the reason I have been using this forum is because it is the only forum relating to Rustoleum Epoxy flooring that I have found. I realize that Rustoleum offers a basement floor epoxy however I can't find any references in the basement forum. I am assuming that both the garage and basement epoxies are fairly similar. (Yea I know don't assume) Question.....if you do half the floor, let it dry, then do the second half, are there any problems? I want to do my woodworking shop in the basement but to get all my tools etc. out at the same time will be, well, at least challenging. No....downright hard due to door sizes versus tool sizes. I want the floor to look decent but aesthetics is not my primary concern , ease of sweeping, cleanup, durability, etc. is. Thanks, Towbot
I recently used the basement epoxy coating in two sepate applications in the same room. It came out great. The only thing you must be careful about is the proportion that you mix the solutions if you aren't going to mix one whole can into the other. I did it by eye and it still came out great--the colors matched between the two separate applications. Hope this helps.
does anyone now where I can see the video for installing the rustoleum to my garage? It came with a video but I dont have a VCR Thank you
I've used the epoxy and had it tinted osha safety blue. We've rolled engine stands, hoists, other heavy equipment over it and it holds up pretty decent. The only thing I've noticed is oil stains do not come out. They should make it with a stain resistant finish. Other than that it held up about as good as the concrete floor paint HD carries. If I were to do my floor again I would just use the regular concrete floor paint they carry. It's cheaper and lasted just as long if not longer. POR-15 also makes a concrete paint that is supposed to be bullet proof.
does anyone now (sic) where I can see the video for installing the rustoleum to my garage? It came with a video but I dont have a VCR Thank you You might find a VCR at one of your local public libraries. You better hurry, however, before they (and the public schools) are closed due to a lack of public support... Errol
The video didn't really add a whole lot of information that wasn't in the instructions. Follow the cleaning and mixing instructions and wait the appropriate amount of time after mixing before applying. Having two people to apply the epoxy is probably a good idea, as one can be cutting in while the other is rolling. We painted our two-car garage in a little over an hour, with total prep/clean/paint time around three hours. The trickiest thing is getting the decorative flecks distributed evenly, and not having a bunch left over or not running out. Lowes had two different no-skid additives, the Valspar quart, and a much smaller container called Shark Bite. Both mixed with one gallon of epoxy. I used the Shark Bite, as the Lowes guy recommended it, and it was cheaper. It looked like sugar, and appeared to dissolve into the epoxy. After drying, the floor had a very uniform no-skid surface, not at all slippery, but also quite pleasant for bare feet or kneeling. I would recommend the no-skid additive. Hope this helps.
Did anyone fill their expansion joints before applying the Rustoleum product? Considering doing this before applying. I realize it may crack later on. Does Rustoleum recommend any specific product that is compatible (other than cement). I have seen some rubber based fillers in the past, so thought I would check. Thanks Ty
Ive had the floor in for a week now. Its a laundry/hot air room in back of garage. No window, just 1 door. My experiences so far: 1) Wash the floor with water and a scrub brush, shopvac the water off. 2) Wash the floor with water and mild acid chemical that comes with the kit, Shopvac the water off. 3) Wait 2 days till dry. Masking Tape walls around floor. 4) Mix 2 parts epoxy, wait 30 minutes. 5) With brush, paint around edges. 6) With roller, do small sections, stopping between to sprinkle flakes. 7) No windows, so put fan in open door, left garage door open all night. There was a smell, definetly need ventilation. 8) Able to walk on it under 12 hours. Surface is nice. Only thing I should warn u about is if there is anything on the floor when you are rolling. For example, there was compound from when they put the sheetrock up. I tried to remove it when i cleaned the floor and it seemed pretty well stuck. But when I was rolling on the epoxy, some of it came up and stuck to the roller, so keep a rag with you as you work. Other than the pain of preparation, it was a very easy job with good results. Note: I read here that it is slippery when wet so I purchased the anti skid silicate. As I was getting ready to mix into the epoxy, I noticed a warning on it that read: Proven to cause cancer. Now theres a possiblity that once its mixed into the epoxy that wouldnt be a problem but I wasnt willing to take that chance.
I just wanted to pass on some advice that should be in the directions but is not. I needed 4 kits to do my 24X50 garage. I followed the directions to the letter from cleaning to not mixing ahead. I used the first batch and it went on well. the second batch seemed a little thin but not much. I continued with batches 3 and 4. The next day, Monday morning, I went out to the garage and it was horrible. The batches were all different you could tell exactly where I left one and started the next. I called Rust-oleum hot line and they said as with all paint when using more than one can you should mix them all together . Their suggestion was that you mix all 4 cans in a large pail and then pour them back in the original 1 gallon cans. Mix one at a time as the directions suggest. I did that and it now looks great. They did say they will reimburse me for the scond coat. I trimmed mine around the edges with a differnt color and it looks pretty good. The long and short of it is look here and read up before doing the job, I wish I had. Update 2 months later: Rustoeum did reimburse me and the second coat after mixing all the color base together and then seperating back to the 1 gallon cans then mixing the activator/hardner went well and it looks good. 1 exception, the chains on the garden tractor/snowblower do leave rust spots. now I park on rubber mats.
When doing trim work with a different color, did you prep the surface again by sanding over top the original? I want to do trim, and some other type things with a different color. How do you do this when it appears you cant paint over top of epoxy, for example, a line down the middle of the floor... Could I use a cheaper, differnt type of paint for the trim work? Thanks, Mark
Originally Posted by Trbr81 Has anyone applied this stuff on your garage floor? How has it held up? I have heard isolated success stories of the rustoleum kits. stick with originalcolorchips
Originally Posted by KSU4TC I just got done painting the walls of my garage and am about to go buy some floor paint. Hopefully the people @ Lowe's or HD can recommend everything I will need for this project. I have also heard that you need to get the floor VERY clean. After I am finished (hopefully this weekend) I'll let everyone know how it turned out. CHECK OUT www.originalcolorchips.com for they offer the best options.